Our last day in Leon. I think today was the hottest yet, or at least the day the heat got to me the most. Matt went volcano boarding, so it was just Torre and I in the morning. We hung around at the hostel then made our way to Libelula, although I got lost on the way so it was a longer walk than it needed to be!
Some little boys were at the cafe with their family and had their faces painted like lions (or just cats), and they played peek-a-roar with Torre over the booth dividing their table from our table. It was pretty cute. After brunch we came home and napped together until Matt returned from his trek looking for a shower and a nap.
This is the board Matt rode down a volcano!
Some of the folks from Matt’s group, suited up and ready to board down Cerro Negro!
Volcano boarding, for those who may not know, is an adventure tourism activity wherein you hike up an active volcano, put on a protective suit and goggles, then toboggan down the side of said active volcano. It’s like tobagganing down a regular mountain except that snow is replaced by volcanic ash which is a little less cushioning.
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Another stunning day in Leon! Matt wasn’t able to join the volcano boarding group last minute, so we wandered into a local breakfast buffet near the tour place. It was very intimidating to see a huge selection of food I didn’t recognize except perhaps at its most basic: “something with beans” “something else with beans” “might be boiled plantain” “meat in a gravy.” We abandoned ship and went back to Libelula, whose menu we now knew was filled with appetizing and relatively cheap options. I had a papaya crepe, and Matt got the Nica breakfast special.
A typical breakfast in Nicaragua features gallo pinto (guy-oh peen-toe), which is red beans and rice fried together with some onion and a bit of garlic. It is usually accompanied by an egg or two, some tortilla, maybe some fruit, and if you’re extra lucky, some cheese. Matt and I both really enjoyed this type of breakfast, and the first morning after we came home we actually cooked up a big batch of gallo pinto, scrambled some eggs and sliced some cheese for desayuno typico.
Torre was very busy while we ate our breakfast, climbing in the booth, crawling under the table, and using cutlery as drum sticks, but it was nice to share a meal with Matt because I’d been preparing myself for a morning alone if he did the volcano tour. We had the same waitress as we’d had the day before, and she was so patient and kind as we laboriously ordered our food, asked for coffee refills, and got the bill.
We spent the rest of the morning at the hostel. Matt went to the town square to exchange the rest of our American money – many cities have unofficial money changers who hang around high-traffic areas fanning huge stacks of of bills to advertise their services. While unofficial, they are legitimate, and they often offer as good a rate as the banks or currency exchange without charging any fees. It pays to know what a good rate is, because as with everything in Nicaragua, the first offer they make you may just be to test the waters and they’ll expect a counter-offer. The man Matt dealt with gave him a great rate, and since there were no fees it ended up being a better deal than the money we exchanged at the airport when we first arrived. Matt was happy, and the money changer was extremely happy to get a big piece of business.
Leon is hot but not unbearable. The staff at our hostel are friendly, and we’ve chatted with some fellow travelers. I really enjoy the hostel vibe compared to staying in hotels – even when we speak different first languages people are open and interested to hear where you’re from and why you’re there, and it makes for such a nice atmosphere.
For breakfast we took a long walk following inaccurate internet directions in search of a cafe named Libelula. The sidewalks here are narrow and tiled/cobblestone to weather frequent earthquakes. They are frequently interrupted by ramps or stairs, or broken tiles that leave gaping holes usually filled with garbage. To cross the street you may need to descend one or two steps from the sidewalk to the street, and many of the roads are only one way. How drivers know whether a road is one way or not, we have no idea. On foot, it is interesting to try and find your way without street names, especially when Torre is in his carrier and I can’t actually see where I’m putting my feet!
After our wanderings, we made our way back to a restaurant we’d seen the day before near the cathedral – El Sesteo.